Sigo Journeys-- Where to Next?

I love fall. It is my ultimate favorite season of the year. I love to witness the changing of the leaves to a myriad of undefinable colors, sipping apple cider out of a thermos, and picking out decorative pumpkins. And nothing says "fall" more than the start of the college football season. This weekend was Purdue's first game of the season. We were excited.

We arrived early and had lunch at Triple XXX, a W Lafayette tradition. It was also featured on the FoodNetwork: Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives. I think this was considered one of the diners (or maybe a dive)! But we love it. The food is outstanding. It kind of reminds me of Camellia Grill in New Orleans. Counter-seating only in a narrow space. But Camellia servers are livelier: "Word!" You pay at a cashier "the Godfather" at the door when you have just filled yourself up with a greasy burger and fries. But it is totally worth it!

We then walked around the stadium looking for the commemorative brick that we inscribed. We found it in section G.

This was also the first year that we had season club seats, so I was happy to not be sitting on bleacher seats where people are inviting friends from other sections to join them: "No, we got room! Come on over! Don't mind my big coat that is covering my big beer gut. Just squeeze in!" We had actual seats with our own cup holders. Very rare at a college stadium. Our aisle seats were on the 30 yard line. I want to keep these seats until we are too old and weak to go to games!

Purdue beat N Colorado in a narrower margin than anticipated: 32-10.

Don't get me wrong. I love professional football too. E loves the Colts and the Saints. He grew up supporting the Bears until the Colts came to Indy. Now he just likes the Bears because Kyle Orton is the QB. He was a former Boilermaker. We decided to also attend the Colts' first game at their new stadium. Unfortunately, they were playing the Bears!

In fact, the Bears stayed in our hotel. We saw John Madden arrive on his luxury motor coach bus "The Madden Cruiser." Apparently, John has not boarded a plane since 1979, but crisscrosses the nation in an $800,000, 45-foot luxury coach fitted with everything from sauna to gourmet galley. I was standing outside the hotel waiting for the valet and someone gets off this HUGE bus and looks straight at me. I was like: "hmmm, he looks familiar!" When the Bears arrive I have no idea who any of the players are. They are all dressed in suits and look very "non-football player-ish" (I know that is not a word). A woman next to me hugs this guy in a suit. Turns out, he is the Bears' coach, Lovie Smith.

We had dinner that night at Harry & Izzy's, the sister restaurant to St Elmo's Steakhouse, which is usually ranked as one of the top steakhouses in the nation. We could not get a reservation there-- I will find out why later. The restaurants are famous for their steak (duh) and shrimp cocktail, which is accompanied with fiery ( AKA atomic) cocktail sauce full of fresh horseradish. Our eyes were watering, but it was sooooo yummy. We also shared a bone in ribeye and their spaghetti. On the way back to the hotel, we passed St Elmos where there were kids outside with books awaiting player autographs.

Lucas Oil stadium was gorgeous. It holds 63,000 and has a retractable roof. But whatever you do, don't call it "The Luke"! "This is a big deal to us," Lucas said. "We'd prefer people call it Lucas Oil Stadium, but call it anything but The Luke. What people are doing by calling it that is doing one of my competitors a multimillion-dollar favor." He is referring to one of his company's competitors is Russianowned, Lukoil, which is making a big push in North America. Unfortunately, Wikipedia already dubbed it "the Luke" which appeared to be retracted at the time of writing this blog.

Orton's comeback was a good one. But it was bittersweet since the Colts lost.

E declared 2008 the Heritage Tour Year, as we went to Vietnam in February and we planned to go to Sweden in the summer. We initially wanted to do Scandinavia on our own, to include Bergen, Oslo, Helsinki, and Stockholm, but decided that such an aggressive itinerary would require us staying in a different hotel every night, or sleeping on a train or overnight ferry. Not my idea of a relaxing vacation! We also wanted to visit St. Petersburg anyway, and liked the idea of seeing it with a knowledgeable guide instead of worrying about getting the required visas. The cruise would give us a taste of seven countries, and we could return to spend some more time in Western Norway and Stockholm on a future trip.

Wed, 7/09- 70 degrees, sunny
Copehagen, Denmark

We landed in Copenhagen at approximately 3PM and headed straight to the cruise terminal. Our cruise departed at 8PM.

Thurs, 7/10- 75 degrees, sunny
Sea Day.
We were fortunate to be able to catch up on some sleep, since we didn’t have time to acclimate to the time change. We attended a lecture on Stockholm, given by John Lawrence, and then spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon on the deck enjoying the sun. The weather was unseasonably warm as we cruised the Baltic. We went to the gym, getting ready for all the food that we would be consuming this week! At 6pm, we went to the Crown Grill, an alternative restaurant on the ship that specializes in Seafood and Steak. We were seated right by the window overlooking the Baltic Sea. We shared a bottle of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. What a wonderful way to start our journey and experience sailing.

Fri, 7/11- 66, sunny, then partly cloudy
Stockholm, Sweden

If I had to call one European city home, it could be Stockholm.
~Rick Steves

I tell ya, I could have got some more jobs if I'd tried, but I went to Sweden instead.
~Lee Hazlewood

One-third water, one-third parks, one-third city, on the sea, surrounded by woods, bubbling with energy and history, Sweden's stunning capital is green, clean, and underrated. Stockholm is a city of 14 islands linked by boats and graceful bridges. Its history stretches seven centuries, and it is Sweden's center of art and culture. It is also as famous for being the home of the Nobel Prize.
We entered the Archipelago in the early morning hours. It is approximately 55 nautical miles to traverse through the intricate islands leading to Stockholm.

We docked at 10 AM. We boarded the Hop-On Hop-Off boat that would conveniently take us around the city via the waterways.

Our first stop was the Vasa Museum. The museum showcases a ship that was salvaged in 1961 almost completely intact (the Baltic's brackish waters kept parasites at bay). This glamorous but un-seaworthy ship sank 20 minutes into her 1628 maiden voyage when a breeze caught the sails and blew her over in the Stockholm harbor. 333 years later, with the help of marine archaeologists, it took about 2 years to actually raise and re-float her and though she is now on display it is not yet finished. She was in such pristine condition, she looked almost fake.

We then headed to Gamla Stan, the Old Town, which once held the entire of Stockholm. We walked along the water and headed to Melanders Fisk, a restaurant over looking the water.

We had a taste of real Swedish meatballs, which was accompanied with mashed potatoes, a cucumber salad, and lingonberry sauce (similar to whole cranberry sauce). It would not have been complete without some Swedish beer.

We strolled the cobblestone streets and then stopped for coffee and truffles at a local praline shoppe.

Sat, 7/12- 66, partly cloudy, then sunny
Helsinki, Finland

Time change- one hour ahead

A city of the sea, Helsinki was built along a series of odd-shape peninsulas and islands jutting into the Baltic coast along the Gulf of Finland. It was actually build to rival Tallinn (where we will visit later) as a Port in the gulf of Finland. Helsinki is a very maritime city and is popularly called the daughter of the Baltic.
We awoke at around 10am. That’s what happens when you don’t have a window in your stateroom… The ship docked at around 10:30am, and we filed in line to disembark. We took the shuttle bus that dropped us off at the Swedish theater (interesting that it was in Finland). We headed toward the Temppeliaukio Church. Also called the Rock Church, it was blasted and carved from solid granite and topped with a huge copper dome.

We walked back to the main area of Helsinki, the Esplanade. We stopped by the train station which was rumored to have inspired the set designers who created Gotham for the first Batman movie. We passed by an outdoor summer bar (terrassit as the locals call them). It turned out to be Café Koppeli (Rick Steves claims this as his favorite café in all of Northern Europe) and enjoyed a Finnish beer while we listened to a band.

Sun, 7/13- 79, partly cloudy, then sunny
St. Petersburg, Russia

Time change- one hour ahead

The start of our 2 day tour began today at 6:45am. We had to have a copy of our passport to get a visitor’s visa. We knew that this was going to be an aggressive two days, but we were prepared and excited.

St Petersburg was so beautiful and with such a European influence; it reminded me of Venice or Amsterdam. According to our tour guide, Anna, its architectural style differs significantly than in Moscow. I read somewhere that “St. Petersburg is almost too European to be Russian. And yet it's too Russian to be European.”
The city’s 50 plus islands interconnected by over 500 bridges. We first went to Peterhof palace, the summer residence of the royal family, located about one hour outside of the the city. Built to rival Versailles, the palace sits atop a hill overlooking the Gulf of Finland. Peter the Great drafted the layout for the 300 acre park and supervised the design of the palace fountains.

We returned to the city to visit Yusupov Palace. The palace was the site of the assassination of the monk Rasputin, whom Prince Felix Yusupov and other nobles feared as a baneful influence on Tsar Nicholas II. We saw the actual cellar room where Rasputin was poisoned then shot.
We had lunch at the Last Palace. Our meal included items such as smoked salmon and red caviar, potatoes and leek soup (I think), and chicken in a cream sauce with carrots and rice. It was all washed down with Russian vodka and champagne. A harpist played music on the stage. I could do this every day!
Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, built on the site of the 1881 assassin of Tsar Alexander II, who enacted many reforms, including the abolishment of serfdom. This was a gorgeous church and one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen.

Outside the church we walked around a local market and found some traditional nesting dolls, or matryoshkas. The name "Matryoshka" is said to have been adopted from the name Matryona or Matriosha. Both of these names were very popular among Russian peasants. So matryoshka has come to mean "little mother" based on the idea that the outer or largest doll holds her babies inside like an expectant mother and that each daughter in turn becomes a mother. They are symbols of fertility and motherhood and have a modified egg shape. The first of these dolls was made in 1890. This is a picture of the original matryoshka set.

A heated poker is used in some designs to burn in details of the doll including facial features and costume details and "painted" with pigmented wax. Mine is a set of 5 dolls. We also found a set for E—Purdue matryoshkas! Each of them have a player’s name on its jersey. So cute!

We went back to the ship and lounged by the pool. We had dinner at Sabatini’s that night, feasting on antipasti, lobster and wine…

Mon, 7/14- 79, sunny then cloudy
St. Petersburg, Russia

We were quite lucky these past 2 days. Anna says that St Petersburg experiences 40-50 days of sunshine a year. We took an early morning harbour cruise along the canals. We had champagne and Bajltika 7 beer—8am nightcap? We saw a lot of the major landmarks from the water including the Hermitage (which we were visiting later) and the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood.

This is how close the boat was to the bottom of the bridge!

We received special access to the Hermitage, which is usually closed on Mondays. It opened especially for the cruise tours, so it was not as crowded as it normally would be. The Hermitage collection was started by Catherine the Great. She started her famed art collection in 1764. Very few people were allowed within to see its riches—in one of her letters she lamented that "only the mice and I can admire all this." Today, the vast Hermitage collections are displayed in six buildings, the main one being the Winter Palace which used to be the official residence of the Russian Tsars.

We were served lunch at a restaurant that looked like a cave, similar to the cellar where Rasputin was killed. Again our meal was accompanied with Russian vodka and champagne. Russian folklore dancers and singers walked around playing music at every table.
After lunch, we went to Peter & Paul’s Fortress. Originally built to protect the city from Swedish attack, the fortress soon became Russia’s Tower of London, a place for imprisoning political prisoners - including Peter the Great’s own son.
Our last stop was St. Isaac’s Cathedral. This is Anna’s favorite church. We could see why. The cathedral’s massive central gold dome - one of the largest in the world - is covered with 220 pounds of pure gold and dominates the city skyline. The Cathedral was commissioned by Alexander I in 1818 and took more than three decades to complete.

We were sad to leave St. Petersburg. It delivered more than we ever expected in terms of history, architectural beauty, art and culture, and its peaceful waterways. Along with the sunny weather and Anna as our guide, we had the perfect two days here.

Tues, 7/15- 70, cloudy then sunny
Tallin, Estonia

The beautiful capital city of Tallinn is one of the Baltic's great surprises, a fairyland jewel of medieval architecture perched dramatically above the sea. In 1991, Estonia won its independence from the Soviet Union without bloodshed, and since then, Tallinn has succeeded in restoring its beauty and charm. A member of the famed Hanseatic League that dominated trade in the Baltic during the Middle Ages, Tallinn has preserved its medieval Old City with its high church spires and red-tiled roofs.

Since we had a busy two days, it was nice to have a slower day. We took the shuttle to Old Town. The city was quaint with cobblestone streets lined with old stone buildings that appear to be unchanged for centuries.

We sat at an outdoor café and had an Estonian beer while writing our postcards.

Wed, 7/16- 70, partly cloudy
Gdynia (Gdank), Poland
Time change, One hour back

May God permit us both to return to a free and independent Poland.
~Wladyslaw Anders

We docked in Gdynia and headed on a bus that would take us to Gdansk, about one hour away. Lying on the southern coast of the Gdansk Bay of the Baltic Sea, Gdansk is a beautiful city, and Poland's principal seaport. The city holds a special place in many Polish hearts, as it is here that the Solidarity movement was born, their opposition to the government became a serious thorn in the Kremlins side and in 1989 eventually led to the end of communist party rule in Poland. The Solidarity movement placed Gdansk firmly on the world map. 90% of the city was destroyed during World War II, but has since been restored.
We took a tour of the Old Town, which is so beautiful. This is what I used to imagine when reading fairytales.

As Poland is one the amber centers of the world, one of the tour stops was a Baltic Amber boutique, which provided a presentation on the history and importance of amber to the region. The Baltic region is home to the largest known deposit of amber, called Baltic amber, with about 80% of the world's known amber found here. Most of the world's amber is in the range of 30–90 million years old. Amber has served as a form of currency for centuries.
Amber is fossil tree resin. A common misconception is that amber is made of tree sap. Amber occurs in a range of different colors. As well as the usual yellow-orange that is associated with the color "amber.” Other more uncommon colors include red amber (or "cherry amber"), green amber, and even blue amber, which is rare and highly sought after.
The demand for amber has increased in recent years, and today, there is a significant amount if phony amber in the marketplace. Fake amber can be made from heating colored plastic, using copal (not 'mature' amber) or other modern polymers. They showed us how to distinguish real amber from the fake stuff. One of the methods is to destroy it! Unfortunately, none of the methods are conclusive. You just have to buy from a reputable dealer.
I purchased a beautiful green amber necklace from them that came with a certificate of authenticity. I wore it for the rest of the day. We stopped at a local outdoor café and enjoyed the weather. Another gorgeous day! We had some Polish beer with a magherita pizza and some perogis.

Thurs, 7/17- Day at Sea
We just relaxed!

Fri, 7/18- 70, partly cloudy
Oslo, Norway

Time change, One hour back

When I was young, the capital of Norway was not called Oslo. It was called Kristiania. But somewhere along the line, the Norwegians decided to do away with that pretty name and call it Oslo instead.
~Roald Dahl

Consistently listed as one of the most expensive cities in the world, Oslo is also one of the most beautiful places that we have ever traveled to. It is the oldest and least populous of the Scandinavian capital cities with a varied collection of cultural attractions and natural wonders. Situated at the head of a 60-mile fjord on the southern coast, Oslo is beautifully framed by a vast expense of woods, moors and lakes.

We took the Maritime tour, which allowed us to take a short bus ride to a bird’s eye view overlooking the city. We passed the Hollmenkollen Ski Tower. Ski jumping originated here in 1892 but the present facility was built in 1952 for the Winter Olympics of that year. In order to host the 2011 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships (and meet the requisite standards), the ski jump will be demolished in September 2008. We were so happy to be able see it before it was destroyed.

We visited two maritime museums.

We then boarded an old sailing vessel that was totally restored.

We cruised Oslofjord passing the most breathtaking scenery and islands.

We passed a little seafood restaurant that you can only get to by boat. We are planning to go there on our next visit!

Sailaway was even more beautiful!

Sat, 7/19- 70, partly cloudy
Copenhagen, Denmark

I'm really looking forward to playing in Copenhagen again. Last time I stayed as long as I could, took pictures, signed autographs, and hung out until they through me out of the place!
~George Duke

I am flying back to New York as I write this. I will never forget these wonderful 35 days and I would go back to Copenhagen in a heartbeat to work there again.
~Tony Visconte

Copenhagen, the capital city of Denmark, is situated on the east coast of the Danish island of Zealand, the largest of Denmark’s approximately 500 islands. The entire country is in size, one half the area of Maine! The name Copenhagen or København, means ‘Merchant Harbor’ and it is believed that the City was founded in 1167 by Bishop Absalon, at the spot where fishermen and merchants gathered to market their goods.

We disembarked at around 6 am, and asked the taxi cab driver to take us to the Little Mermaid. She was inspired by Hans Christian Andersen and sculpted by Edvard Eriksen in 1913. The statue was commissioned in 1909 by Carl Jacobsen, son of the founder of Carlsberg, after he had been fascinated by a ballet about the fairytale. His wife Eline Eriksen was the model.
A statue of the Little Mermaid sits on a rock in the Copenhagen harbor in Churchill Park. It is one of the most photographed statues in the world, and Rick Steves wrote that the Little Mermaid might just be the most overrated tourist attraction. But we still had to see it. She was gorgeous and set on the backdrop of the rising sun, even more beautiful.

We walked to the ‘burbs to visit Carlsberg brewery, continuing our international beer quest.

The brewery was outside of the city and hard to find, but it was worth it! It was a self guided tour with stops along the way including the largest beer bottle collection and two pubs. Our tickets included two regular sized beers (not tastings).

Some of the company's original logos include an elephant (after which some of its lagers are named) and the swastika. The symbol itself is an ancient Indian symbol meaning health and prosperity. Its confusion with the ‘crooked cross’ of Nazi Germany led to the company dropping the logo in the 1930’s. However, the symbol is embellished on the two elephants that serve as gate entrances to the brewery.

We walked back to the city. We stopped at a Vietnamese restaurant that we saw on the way to the brewery. The place was very modern and very expensive, compared the restaurants in Houston. A bowl of soup that is normally around $5 in our hometown was $25 in Copenhagen. And based on our perusal of the restaurants in the city, this was deemed rather reasonable. The food was wonderful and the service was top notch. We headed to the Tivoli. It is one of the city's most celebrated sights, a unique combination of picture-perfect gardens, lakes and more than 100,000 colored lights. It is basically an amusement park with some upscale restaurants and carnival rides. The weather was turning nasty and it began to rain. The Tivoli did not look as magical during the rainstorm. This is the first day during the entire trip that we experienced less than perfect weather. We took cover in the train station and wrote out our postcards. After the rain subsided, we walked along the canals of the city, and relished in the last day of our vacation. We were heading home the next day, and by golly, we were going to enjoy it, despite the fact that we were tired and woke up at 4 am!
We walked all around the city looking for a place to have our last meal, and we could not find anything that appealed to us. We went back to the Vietnamese restaurant, which at night turned in to a trendy bar. Again, the food was delicious, especially with another international beer, this time a Japanese one!

Overall, this was such a wonderful experience, and I dont think that we would have changed anything about the entire trip. We cannot wait to return!

San Diego is too wonderful to keep to ourselves. We invited our friends Marc and Kristy (who is 7 months pregnant!) to join us.

Sat, 5/24- We headed straight to LaJolla, for brunch at Brockton Villas, one of our favorite spots. Then we went to the famed San Diego zoo. It was an amazing place. One of the most interesting animals was the okapi. The okapi has white-and-black striped hindquarters and front legs, and looks like it must be related to the zebra. But in fact, it is related to the giraffe. Scientists did not know of the animal until 1900.

The weather was perfect. We lounged at the pool and did some shopping...
For dinner, we headed to Donovan's Steakhouse. Donovan's has been named one of America's Top Prime Steakhouses, and recommended by a friend who is a local. It definitely was one of the largest and best steaks we have ever had!

Sun, 5/25
In keeping with our ballpark tours, our first one of the season is PetcoPark. We stayed in the GasLamp district, so it was an easy 1 mile walk to the park. The weather was perfect. PetcoPark is a beautiful ballpark, it was designed to create "neighborhoods" within the park. A great feature is the "park within a park". This area in the outfield features a small playing field and a grassy hill for fans to lounge on. Fans are permitted into the park area 2 1/2 hours before game time. There is also the incorporation of an old brick building, the Western Metal Supply Co. building, which has been restored and provides a nice back drop in left field. We left before the game was over; it turned out to be an 18 inning game! The Padres eventually won!

Torrey Pines is such an amazing, gorgeous place. It is one of the gems of San Diego.

Mon, 5/26
Breakfast at HashHouse a Go Go was an adventure! Everything is Fred Flinstone sized portions. E got the pancake-- which was humongous. I got the Indiana fried chicken and poached eggs. I washed it down with an orange champagne cocktail. Yummy!

We ended the morning by walking along the coast at Torrey Pines.

Second mileage run of the year. We decided to explore Portland since we have never been there. The weather was not great, and it was drizzling the entire weekend. We read about these fantastic cupcakes at this place called CupcakeJones. The cupcakes are filled with some decadent filling from mint ganache to berry jam. We tried four different types of cupcakes!

We went to Ringside Steakhouse specifically for two things—steak and onion rings. Ringside is on Tom Horan’s list of best steakhouse and James Beard has claimed their onion rings as “the best I’ve ever had.” Ringside delivered. The steak was awesome and we definitely agree with James Beard.

After 21 wonderful years in Carmel, the Masters of Food and Wine has moved to Mendoza, Argentina. The Pebble Beach Food & Wine event attempted to fill the void. This was the first year for the event. Over 32 renowned chefs (including Thomas Keller of the French Laundry, Todd English, Michael Mina and Charlie Trotter) and more than 200 wineries participated in the event. We attended the Lexus Grand Tasting event on Saturday. It was a perfect day in Carmel. While sampling one of the dishes, a camera man came over and requested that we “look like we were enjoying the food;” he wanted to shoot some footage of us eating. How many times can you smile and nod when you are eating? We enjoyed many glasses of wine, and delicious food served by these famous chefs. Ming Tsai’s dish was my favorite. Organic honey from a local farm was given to us as parting gifts. The event was well put together for being the inaugural event. It was a wonderful experience.

Phil’s Fishmarket was featured in FoodNetwork’s Road Tasted. Phil’s is a fishmarket with an adjacent restaurant which is always packed. I ordered the cioppino, which is also sold by the bucket— or you can bring in your own pot. E had the fish and chips. Everything tasted so fresh. My favorite cioppino is still from Tadich--see San Francisco entry.

We drove along the coast in the morning, and stopped at Rocky Point for brunch.

Another last minute trip. Purdue made it to the 2nd round, after beating Baylor. It was a bittersweet victory, since E’s friend Marc was rooting for Baylor. Marc & Kristy are shown in the 7/07 trip to Chicago. And you will see them in 5/08 when we are headed to San Diego with them. It was a great reason to go back to DC. We were here in 2006 on our baseball tour of Cleveland, Philly, Pittsburgh and DC.
This just happened to be the weekend right before the Cherry Blossom Festival. The blooming of the cherry trees around the Jefferson Memorial on the Tidal Basin signal the coming of Spring. The famous trees were a gift from Japan in 1912. Unfortunately, I am not Horticulturalist Robert DeFeo, so exactly when the buds will open is not easily predictable. Even though we were there the weekend before the festival, the blossoms were still not fully bloomed. It is supposed to be spectacular sight.

Purdue was playing Ohio State. It was a decent game and a nailbiter till the finish. Unfortunately, Purdue lost.

I can't say what made me fall in love with Vietnam - that a woman's voice can drug you; that everything is so intense. The colors, the taste, even the rain. Nothing like the filthy rain in London. --Thomas Fowler

I am writing this on our flight home from Asia. We spent four days in Hong Kong and four days in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), which I will be referring to as Saigon. We have always wanted to go to Asia. Saigon specifically, since that is where I was born. My parents were going to going to Saigon for Tet, or Vietnamese New Year, similar to Chinese New Year. We thought this was a great opportunity to go.

Fri, 2/15- We arrived in Hong Kong at 9:00 PM. We took the convenient Airport Express train to Kowloon, where a free shuttle brought us to our hotel. We were staying at the Sheraton, across the street from Victoria Harbour and adjacent to the Peninsula Hotel. It was a perfect location in Tsim Sha Shui, and only one block from the MTR, Hong Kong’s public transit rail.

Sat, 2/16- We headed out to Victoria Peak, also called the Peak. At the top of the Peak, you can see the city skyline, Victoria Harbour and Kowloon, laced with peaceful green hillsides. And if you think the top of the Peak is amazing, getting there is just as unforgettable trip. The Peak Tram climbs 373 metres (about 1,200 feet) in only 7 minutes. It's so steep that the buildings you pass look like they're leaning at a 45°angle. The tram has been operating since 1888, and was initially constructed to transport the wealthy to their residences in the Peak. We just soaked in the view at the Pacific Coffee shop that sits at the top of the Peak. This must be the best coffee shop location in the entire world.

We took the MTR to Tung Chung on Lantau Island. The Ngong Ping 360 experience starts at Tung Chung, where you board a cable car for a stunning ride up a mountainside offering 360-degree views over the sea, lush valleys and rugged terrain, leading up to the awesome Giant Buddha.

The Tian Tan Buddha Statue is the world's largest, seated, outdoor, bronze Big Buddha statue. Constructed from 202 bronze pieces, the Tian Tan Buddha Statue weighs over 250 tons and soars 34 meters into the air. Sitting atop 268 steps, the Tian Tan Buddha Statue is positioned on a lotus throne, surrounded by eight smaller bronze statues representative of the gods. The statue is so named as its base is a model of Tian Tan, the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. The Buddha Statue's right hand is raised, representing the removal of affliction; his left hand rests on his knee, signifying human happiness. While most Buddha statues face South, Tian Tan casts his serene gaze towards the North.

At Tung Chung, there is a huge outlet mall. We had lunch at the Food Republic, a food court that has stations featuring various Asian cuisines, from Thailand to Vietnam. There were over 10 different countries that were represented, but for some reason, E & I both feasted on Korean food! We returned to Hong Kong and walked along the harbor.

For dinner, we headed to Frites, a Belgian restaurant in the heart of SOHO (South Hollywood). The décor was warm and reminded me of a place that we would see in the US-- a ceramic Dalmatian sat on the bar. We enjoyed some Belgian beer with some Thai mussels (steamed with lemongrass, coconut, and chili) and fish & chips. It was not the best fish & chips, but the Asian twist mussels were yummy. We made it back to the harbour just in time for the nightly Symphony of Lights, a synchronized building-exterior-decorative-light-and-laser multimedia display, featuring 44 buildings on both sides of the harbour accompanied by symphonic music. The technology was developed by Australian firm Laservision and cost approximately 44 million HK dollars. Guinness World Records has named the Symphony of Lights the world's largest permanent light and sound show.

Sun, 2/17- We had Sunday brunch at Alain Ducasse’s SPOON. Our seats overlooked the harbour; we enjoyed Alain Ducasse’s champagne while watching the boats go by. SPOON’s brunch featured an appetizer buffet that consisted of little portions of SPOON’s appetizers from lobster Caesar salad in shot glasses to seared foie gras. There was also an antipasto station where we were served hand carved meats and cheeses with a selection of wines. Five specialty entrée dishes were offered as our main course. I chose black cod and E had Wagyu beef tenderloin with truffle sauce. To end our meal, we were invited into the kitchen to choose from a beautiful display of various desserts. The ambience, service, and food was wonderful-- it was easily the easily the best brunch that we have ever experienced.

We walked along the winding streets of Tsim Sha Shui. E definitely stood out. Every five minutes, someone would approach him and offer to make him a suit or show him some replica watches or sell him some phone cards! It was actually quite hysterical. He bought a watch from a local jeweler (not a fake one!), but we did get a substantial savings compared to what was saw online. I was desperately looking for a place to get a foot massage (Chinese reflexology). With all the walking, my feet were desperate for some TLC. But every place that we passed by, you had to go down to the basement or something, and I was uncomfortable with that. Walking though one of the shopping centers, I saw a sign for a nice, legit spa, or so I assumed. We walked down the marble staircase to the counter and I asked to see a service listing. She apologized and told me that this was a men’s only spa! We high-tailed it out of there!

In the evening, we returned to the Peak and had dinner at Café Deco. The restaurant was named by Frommer’s as the restaurant with the “Best View”. We had a great table overlooking the city and enjoyed the light show once again.

Mon, 2/18- We were leaving for Saigon tonight. We had scheduled a tour to some outlying cities of Hong Kong, the “Land Between.” At the last minute, we decided to cancel the tour and take an independent excursion to Repulse Bay, a beachside resort area just 15 minutes from the city. We spent the morning reading the history of Hong Kong. For lunch we went to Spices, in The Repulse Bay hotel overlooking the beach. They also offered some creative cocktails; I had a lychee margarita and E had a concoction with mango and coconut.

The Hong Kong airport is huge! We saw a Popeyes tucked in the corner (can you believe it?) and decided to get some N’awlins cooking. There were several people enjoying their chicken. In fact there was this Caucasian guy there that bought like a 10 piece box and he was eating it all by himself! We were thinking he was headed to Saigon, and this was his last “real meal!”

We arrived in Saigon at 10:00 PM. Customs was a breeze. Mom and Dad were waiting for us at the baggage claim area. They received special permission to receive us inside the airport. It was the first time I met my oldest uncle, or Cuu 10 (my mom’s brother and the eldest of 10 children) and my cousin in law. Outside, there was a mob of people waiting to receive passengers! We would not have found them in the mass of people. We were staying at the Sheraton. What a perfect location, right in the center of everything. The hotel greatly impressed me. The people were very service oriented, and the rooms were quite comfortable and spacious. There was a “master control” that was beside the bed that controlled at the lighting and the curtains. It even controlled the Do Not Disturb light indication, unlike most hotels that use a plastic placard card that hangs from the door knob. The bathrooms were large and had a separate tub and shower. The shower had three showerheads that were separately operated--- so invigorating after a long day of sightseeing.

Tue, 2/19- After breakfast at Pho 24 (a bowl of pho was only $1.50!), we walked around the local streets. We began to get accustomed to the skills of crossing a busy intersection. The traffic is total chaos! There is no “right of way.” Everyone just goes where they need to: right, left, reverse, U-turn. It was insane! We tried to take pictures to capture this insanity, but nothing could do it justice!

We went to the central Post Office, where mom worked for six months. The building was constructed by the French colonists in early 20th century during French Indochina. This post features the Gothic architecture style and was designed in well harmony with the surrounding ward. Today, this post office is an attraction for tourists in this city. Built in the French colonial style, it has high arches, reminding me of a church.

Afterwards, we visited my uncle’s house in the heart of Saigon’s market place, where the vendors sell everything from chickens to moped helmets. My mom used to go the marketplace everyday, to get the freshest ingredients for cooking the evening’s meal. We also visited our old home in Saigon.

We went to Maxim’s for lunch. We had fresh giant prawns that were grilled, fried whole tilapia, fried rice, and some stir fried greens. The meal was delicious! We all went to get massages at a local hotel. The 60 minute body massage was only $7! I also got a 90 minute facial for $35. We decided to come back every day!

For dinner, we went across the street to Mekong, serving French food. E and I are not fans of French cooking, but this meal was truly exceptional. It was definitely the best French dishes that we have eaten, even compared to Le Bouchon in Las Vegas, which is the sister restaurant to the acclaimed French Laundry in Napa, which requires at least 2 months to get a reservation and can require eating ramen noodles to save up for the experience. In addition to being delicious, Mekong’s entrees were only $12!

Wed, 2/20- We went to Restaurant Ngon (meaning “delicious”) for breakfast. The concept of this restaurant is quite intriguing. In Saigon, there are multiple food vendors peppering the streets, selling everything from pho to sandwiches. The owner decided to open his restaurant to the local food vendors considered the best in the city. Throughout the restaurant are food stations that have the dish’s name painted on wicker baskets. There is a separate cooking area at each station. When you order what you want from your waiter, he goes and gets each dish from the vendor that sells that specific dish, not from a central kitchen.

We went across the street to Reunification Palace formerly known as Independence Palace built on the site of the former Norodom Palace. It was the home and workplace of the President of South Vietnam during the Vietnam War and the site of the official handover of power during the Fall of Saigon on April 30, 1975. We then headed to the Vietnam historical museum located adjacent to the Saigon zoo. Throughout the entire day, dad was our tour guide, explaining the history and significance of everything that we saw. We took a train around the local zoo.

We returned to Ngon for lunch and tried some different dishes from the food vendors.
E & I went and got another massage and walked around the city. We stopped at Mojo, a café adjacent to the hotel for some café sua da (Vietnamese iced coffee) al fresco. E was commenting on how much he was enjoying Vietnam, which made me so happy!

We were meeting my Uncle’s family for dinner. This was the first time that I would be meeting them. They barely speak any English. This would be interesting. We drove through the city to this restaurant that was on a lake. It was so peaceful and the grounds were gorgeous. Mom ordered a huge array of food which was shared family style. I understood more than I thought, and tried to translate for E. My cousin Chi and her husband speak conversational English so that helped a lot! Everyone was so sweet, and kept telling us to Eat! Eat! I don’t think they ate as much as we did!

We returned to the hotel and E & I went back to Mojo for another café sua da as a night cap.

Thurs, 2/21- We rented a van and driver for an excursion to Vung Tau, and beach area just three hours east of the city. We were leaving at 6:00 AM. Just minutes out, mom said that all of this used to be farmland. We passed some smaller (and quite dusty) “towns”. There were food vendors and al fresco “cafés” that were amid dusty roads. The cafés were mostly roadside hole-in-the-walls with plastic chairs and tables set outside. We stopped for breakfast in a larger town, which was an oasis in the middle of this barren area. The streets were clean and manicured. We continued on the Vung Tau. The roads in between this larger town and Vung Tau was again barren and dusty, but as we approached Vung Tau, the tree lined streets widened leading us into the seaside town. There were “resorts” that lined the beach. There were public places that you could pay to swim in the pools and of course pay for a beach chair. We walked along the beach and stopped at a café to enjoy a café sua da. We stopped for lunch a restaurant overlooking the water.

We returned to Saigon in the afternoon and got another massage. We walked around the city and stopped at a Pizza Hut. It was a 50 person restaurant with all the interiors of a US based Pizza Hut, but minus the checkered table cloths. In fact, the decor was a lot nicer that what we would find in a typical Pizza Hut in the states. We ordered a thin crust pepperoni pizza and some fries. The pizza was really yummy, and I would not have thought we were in Saigon eating a Pizza Hut pizza. We returned to the hotel and E&I went back to Mojo for another café sua da as a night cap.

Fri, 2/22- It was our last day in Saigon. We would be leaving in the morning. We visited several different pagodas and then went to the Diamond department store. We went to Ngon again for lunch. E & I went and got another massage and walked around the city. For dinner, my cousin invited all of us to dinner at a seafood restaurant. We had some rare fish marinated in lime (kind of like ceviche). The remaining dishes centered around crab: crab eggrolls, crab sautéed in tamarind, and crab with glass noodles. E ate everything! The meal was wonderful!

Sat, 2/23- We left for Hong Kong in the early morning. We stayed at the Habourside Hotel. We were upgraded to a suite because our room was not ready. It was a corner room with all of its windows facing the harbour. The view was amazing. It was a rainy, low key day. We made an attempt to walk around Tsim Sha Shui, but the weather was not cooperating and our hotel was not as convenient as the Sheraton. I am glad that we stayed closer to town on our first days here. Toward the afternoon, we stopped by an MTR station where we found a Chinese foot reflexology place (finally!). We each got a 30 minute foot massage. It was just a great way to end our vacation.

Sun, 2/24- We headed home. Hong Kong and Saigon surprised me in so many respects. I initially wanted to visit because of the significance to my culture. But we will definitely return for all it has to offer.

The flight to Amsterdam was priced just right to allow us to fly there for the weekend. It was our first official mileage run of the year. This is our second trip to Amsterdam (previously in August 2007). The buildings along the canal are so charming—we spent the weekend mainly just wandering the city, also stopping by the Van Gogh museum. We love Amsterdam!

We headed out to Hollywood Beach for a quick weekend to enjoy some beach time. The weather was perfect. We spent the weekend strolling on the beach and enjoying crab claws.

Located in the White River National Forest just an hour from Denver, Keystone is home to three magnificent mountain playgrounds—Dercum Mountain, North Peak, and The Outback. When Max Dercum founded Keystone back in 1970, along with his wife Edna, he knew how much fun it was to slide down snowy mountains on a pair of skis. Along with the Dercums, Bill and Jane Bergman helped shape the Keystone we know and love today.

Today, Keystone stretches seven miles along the Snake River, over three mountains, 3,128 vertical feet, 3,148 acres of terrain, and three vibrant villages. There’s something special for every skier and rider of any level at each mountain. There are more than 3,000 vertical feet and over 3,000 acres of bowls, bumps, glades, steeps and groomers to be experienced. Colorado’s biggest night skiing operation is here...
keystone.snow.com

We thought Keystone would be a great place to go with our friends Kristin and Troy.

Fri, 1/18/08- We arrived in Denver at 8:00 PM. What a better way to experience Colorado than with some bison? Ted's Montana Grill serves up a wide array of specialty burgers (you can choose between 100-percent natural premium Harris Ranch beef or National Bison Association-certified bison). Ted's motto is "Eat Great. Do Good." referring to its deep commitment to the environment. Their goal is to be 99% plastic-free, using recyclable paper menus, paper straws and reusable glass. Their bison chili hit spot, covered in onions, cheese and raw jalapenos!

Sat, 1/19/08- We headed out to Keystone. Traffic was horrendous! It took almost two hours to get there-- I am assuming everyone thought it was a great day to ski! We were able to check into the River Run condos and the boys headed for the slopes. Kristin and I had lunch reservations at Alpenglow Stube. At at 11,444 feet, it is the highest AAA Four-Diamond dining experience in North America. We enjoyed amazing views on the two gondolas, arriving at the restaurant at the top of the North Peak. Our boots were exchanged for cozy slippers and we enjoyed delicious bloody Marys in a beautiful setting. The Stube offered a huge appetizer buffet complete with proscuitto and cheeses, salads, and smoked mussels and salmon. We were practically stuffed. But we also got a choice of soup and an entree! We stayed there for over two hours at our window seat...

Sun, 1/20/08- The boys headed out to ski again this morning, while the girls went to Keysone Lodge in an adjacent village. We spent the day getting pampered. Afterwards, we took an afternoon scenic sleigh ride. It was very cold, but we were able to get warm under cozy blankets that were provided. The apple cider helped too! The scenery was truly picturesque!

Bighorn Steakhouse was a perfect place for dinner-- occupying one of the finest locations in Summit County, with a spectacular view of Keystone Lake and the Continental Divide. We watched the last part of the playoff game at the table on the Slingbox via E's 8125. The NY Giants defeated Green Bay, meaning they would be playing the Patriots at the Superbowl! The girls had steaks and the boys had scallops and fish! Go figure... Everything was yummy.

Mon, 1/21/08- We headed back to Denver. Saw The Bucket List, which was quite entertaining. Just a quiet Monday, winding down from the weekend's events. We had such a great time with some wonderful friends.

This was our first trip in 2008.

Fri, 1/11/08- We arrived in Indianapolis at 11:00 PM.

Sat, 1/12/08- We headed to West Lafayette. We stopped for lunch at Triple XXX Family Restaurant (named after the named after Triple XXX Root Beer), Indiana's first drive in. It was featured on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives on the Food Network. The restaurant has entirely bar-stool seating at a counter that winds around the restaurant. The burgers are named after Purdue football players and are made from 100% ground sirloin. E had The Boilermaker Pete and I had the The Bernie Flowers All-Pro, accompanied by fried and onions rings.

We walked to the basketball stadium where Purdue was playing the Ohio Buckeyes. The Boilermakers beat the Buckeyes 75-68. It was my first basketball game in a college stadium.

We headed back to Indy to celebrate at Mo's Steakhouse. We had the scallops wrapped in pancetta and splurged on the Surf & Turf, which consisted of their signature dish-- the 20 oz rib eye and an Australian lobster tail.

Sun, 1/13/08- The Westin was connected to the RCA Dome, so it was very convenient to get to the stadium, especially since it was cold and snowing. We were definitely expecting the Colts to whip the Chargers-- it was a nail biter towards the end. But the Colts couldn't pull through and the Chargers defeated the Colts 28-24. Next year, the Colts will be in the new Lucas Oil stadium. Can't wait to experience it!

Vail boasts three distinct areas of the mountain, each with their own features and fortes, including four terrain parks, seven bowls and 5,289 acres of freeride terrain. At seven miles wide, finding fresh tracks is as easy as finding elbow room. In fact, on an average day, there are only two skiers per acre, and on a busy day, only four!
vail.snow.com

Fri, 12/14- We arrived in Denver at 11:00 PM. A couple of weeks ago, staying in Steamboat that night sounded like a good idea. Not such a wonderful idea now. The drive ended up taking longer than we thought and we arrived at the Sheraton at 2AM. The temperature was 20 below.

Sat, 12/15- The hotel was in a great location-- at the bottom of the lift—IF we had decided to ski. But it was still about 10 below. So we decided to warm up with Winona’s famous cinnamon buns.

After breakfast, we headed to Edwards (about 20 min from Vail), to the exclusive gated community of Cordillera. The Lodge & Spa at Cordillera is set high atop a privately owned mountain with sweeping views of the Vail Valley. We got to enjoy the view from our balcony adorned with icicles.

We went to dinner at Dine, an innovative restaurant serving its dishes in tapas-style portions— perfect for sharing. My favorite tapas was the original: Serrano ham and with a sliver of manchego draped over a shot glass that contained a splash of Spanish fino sherry. It was a great starter to a wonderful meal.

Sun, 12/16- It was still rather brisk in the morning. E decided to go skiing in Vail, but I opted for the spa and lounging in front of the fireplace. We went to dinner at Junipers--we ordered the balsamic glazed rib eye and the Colorado lamb chops.

Mon, 12/17- We walked around Vail Village and decided to have lunch at Sweet Basil. It was named “Colorado’s Most Popular Restaurant” by the Zagat survey. The white truffle parmesan fries were decadent.

Vail steals the hearts of everyone who visits. Currently Vail Resort is in the midst of a billion dollar renewal which is said will improve the overall experience. It is a wonder how the experience could get any better…but I think that I can be persuaded to return to find out.

Say the French, 'See Paris and die!'
Make your home at La Jolla and Live, say I.
The San Diego Union
May 5, 1887

Fri, 12/7- We arrived in San Diego at 8:00 PM. The airport is surprising close to the city—about 3 miles! We headed towards downtown. We were staying at the W in the Gaslamp district. Such a hip hotel... they turned their lobby into a hip bar. They even have a bar on the second floor called Beach, adjacent to the pool, complete with sand floors.

Sat, 12/8- We decided to head north to spend the morning hiking at the Torrey Pines National Reserve. On the way to the reserve, we stopped in La Jolla for breakfast. The Cottage restaurant serves a famous French toast that is stuffed with strawberries and marscapone cheese. After such a hearty breakfast, we were looking forward to a long hike.
Torrey Pines National Reserve is only 15 minutes from San Diego and offers some of the most amazing views of the coast line. The trails were fairly short and we were able to hike several trails.

There were some amazing sand formations!

We decided to grab a light lunch at George’s Bar back in La Jolla. The bar sits on the coast and we enjoyed shrimp and fish tacos while enjoying the view. We spent the afternoon walking along the coast. There was a small beach where a flock? of seals resided.

La Jolla reminded me so much of Monterey, CA. I lived in Monterey for a couple of years and always wanted to return and live there some day. La Jolla, the Spanish term for "The Jewel," was beautiful in its own right; it was breathtaking.

On our travels we are always seeking a place for great steak. One of the “best” lists names Donovan’s as the base place in San Diego for steak. At the last minute, we found a Bradley Ogden restaurant and decided that we could have steak back in Texas! Arterra just completed one million dollars in renovations. The place was beautiful and included a sushi bar and an outdoor patio complete with couches and a fire pit. We had a beautiful salad that consisted of the freshest ingredients from a neighboring farm drizzled with a light vinaigrette. E had the Kurobuta pork sampler that consisted of crispy confit, homemade sausage, and roasted loin. I had the trout stuffed with chorizo and lobster. For dessert, we had the Valhona Chocolate Bouchon, that consisted of a brownie, Smores ice cream, and toasted marshmallows. The meal was wonderful!

Sun, Dec 9- We headed back to La Jolla to spend our last day. We had brunch at Brockton Villas, where they serve their world famous Coast Toast, similar to a soufflé (see recipe below). I had “steamed” scrambled eggs with chorizo. It was the best eggs I had ever eaten! We spent the rest of our hours walking around the town and along the coast. We had reservations to Ortega’s, a place that serves lobsters cooked Puerto Nuevo style. Puerto Nuevo-style lobster has been a phenomenon since 1956, when several women in the tiny fishing village south of Rosarito started dropping fresh lobsters into pots of bubbling oil and serving them to a few outsiders. We decided to forego Ortega’s and just enjoy La Jolla and it beautiful surroundings.

The U.S. Weather Bureau describes San Diego's weather as the most nearly perfect in America. The average year-round high temperature is 70ºF (21ºC). The yearly rainfall is light, averaging only 9.45 inches. To put this in perspective, Houston averages 50 inches of rainfall a year. I think we experienced 2 inches of rain during the time we were there. And it was rather chilly—a cool high 50s degrees; I had to buy a light sweater! Despite the “inclement” weather, we had a wonderful time. San Diego is a place that we would like to spend more time. Well, we need to come back to try Puerto Nuevo style lobster!

Brockton Villa's Coast Toast Recipe

1 loaf soft French bread (sliced)
1 qt. whipping cream
10 eggs
¾ cup orange juice
½ cup sugar
a pinch of salt
2 tbs. vanilla
2 tbs. orange flavoring

Combine liquid ingredients. Pour over bread slices. Cover and refrigerate at least one hour.

Remove bread and discard liquid. Spread butter on flat grill.

Cook bread until golden brown, then bake at 450° for 5 -7 minutes or until bread is puffed up like a soufflé. Dust with powdered sugar.

Serve immediately.

Serves 6

Lying there in the sun
On a white sandy beach of Hawai`i
Sound of the ocean soothes my restless soul
Sound of the ocean rocks me all night long.
White Sandy Beach, by Willie Dan
Sung by Israel Kamakawiwo'ole “IZ”

As the right wing of the airplane tipped, I saw our approach toward Oahu. I couldn’t contain my anticipation any longer… I was so nice to be back. I lived here from 1998 to 2001 and have tried to come back as often as possible. E and I have been back three times since 2004, and we are planning to go to Maui next year.

We love coming here during Thanksgiving, allowing an easy five days of relaxation. We usually would take several day trips to the Windward side and North Shore during our visit. But since we have spent some time here already, we decided to take it slow and just lounge at the beach, going into the city only to partake in some ono food.

We were staying in the Ko Olina resort area, about 20 miles west of Honolulu. The name Ko Olina means the fulfillment of joy. Ko Olina consists of four man-made lagoons. Rock barriers provide protection from the ocean and high surf. The lagoons are sandy beaches surrounded by grass and shaded picnic areas. The lagoons are called: Kolola, Hanu, Nai'a, and Ulua.

Wed, 11/21- We arrived to Honolulu in the afternoon. We headed to Ko Olina to relax before dinner. I had a mai tai and E had a local beer while we watched the sun go down.

Alan Wong’s has been our favorite restaurant since we first ate there in 2004. Last year we had a wonderful Thanksgiving meal here, but they decided to close this year for the holiday. We were able to get a late reservation for tonight. The restaurant is located in an unassuming office building, with barely any signage. Every time we have approached the restaurant, it never fails. The car comes to a halt as we are wondering, “Is this it?” I squint to make out the Alan Wongs sign on the building. This is it. We take the elevator to the third floor…every seat in the house was occupied.

E ordered the ginger crusted onaga. E always orders the onaga. I got the steamed opakapaka, as our waiter was telling us how they just put this dish back on the menu and how they “steamed” the fish by ladling hot oil over the fish instantly creating a broth. Both dishes were amazing, but I can see why E orders the onaga all the time! It is ginger crusted with organically grown hamakua mushrooms with corn and miso sesame vinaigrette.


Thurs, 11/22- We reserved the cabana for the whole day. The weather was perfect.

We met the newly married Woos (mentioned in the Las Vegas entry) at Diamondhead Grill for Thanksgiving dinner. Coincidentally, they were here on their honeymoon. Three of us had the traditional turkey dinner, while Milton had a steak. But I am sure the Pilgrims had some sort of steak on their Thanksgiving table…

Fri, 11/23- We went to Hapa Grill for breakfast. Everytime we are in Hawaii, I have to have certain things. One of them is fried rice and eggs for breakfast. Hapa did it right. We again reserved the cabana for the whole day. Another perfect day. We took a break and went to eat Hawaiian plate lunch (another “must have”). I really miss this when I am away. The BBQ mixed plate consists of BBQ chicken, pork, and beef. A scoop of mac salad and two scoops of rice. It is soooo ono.

We met some of our friends at Sam Choys. I knew them when I lived here, and it is so nice to see them when we return. A lot of history between us, we were just discussing how we have known one another for nearly ten years! Aren't the girls cute?!

Sat, 11/24- We got massages outdoors adjacent to the ocean, listening to the waves crash. The sea massages were a great way to melt the tense muscles from the eight hour flight. I got the Lomi Lomi massage. Lomi Lomi developed out of the Hawaiian philosophy of Huna (meaning "secret"). Therapists use their hands, elbows, and forearms to apply long, gliding strokes, rhythmic movements, and pressure. It was such a treat.

We headed back to Honolulu to try Chef Mavro’s new restaurant: Cassis. The name was chosen because George Mavro’s first restaurant was in the picturesque harbor village of Cassis on the Mediterranean. E and I have been to Cassis and love its beauty. We had high expectations of the restaurant, as Chef Mavro is a renowned chef. However, we were quite disappointed in the entire experience. The service was terribly slow, despite the restaurant not being very busy (desolate compared to Alan Wongs). And our dishes arrived at room temperature, almost cold. We did not make mention of it to our server, hoping that I was just a bad night. We commented to one another that we should have just returned to Alan Wongs for a meal that we KNEW would not disappoint. The only redeeming dish for E was the malasadas (Hawaii’s version of a doughnut without a hole) that were filled with macadamia nut cream. I was not as easily swayed.

Sun, 11/25- We woke up remorsefully. It was our last day. We hung out at the beach for a couple of hours before brunch. I chose JW Marriott’s signature restaurant Azul for Sunday brunch. Our waiter arrived with a tropical mimosa (traditional mimosa enhanced with mango). The buffet offerings included lobster bisque in little tea party sized cups (E asked for a spoon and was told it was supposed to be “sipped.”), cold bar with shrimp, oysters and gigantic crab claws— reminded me of the stone crabs at Trulucks, crustess quiche, a variety salads, an antipasti bar, and a plethora of desserts with a chocolate fountain! The display was presented so graciously. The brunch also included an entrée selection. E ordered the lobster eggs benedict and I got the roasted onaga (finally!) I had eight huge crab claws before my entrée came. The food was just delicious! With unlimited champagne and a Bloody Mary bar, the brunch was the best one we had ever had!
We lounged on the beach for a couple of hours before we had to say good bye to our lovely lagoon. Every time we visit, it is harder and harder for us to leave. There are at least several moments when we are discussing the possibility of moving here… Someday, someday!

There are many islands with beauty to give
But this special place is where I want to live
O`ahu, by Carol Miguel and Keith Haugen

Meet me down by the old Golden Gate
Out where the sun goes down about eight.
~ Down Among the Sheltering Palms, James Brockman, lyricist

If you read our Chicago to Ann Arbor (vs Michigan) entry, you saw that we went to Holy Mackerel, Harry Caray's new seafood restaurant. I had the most disappointing cioppino, and could not wait to head back to San Francisco for the real deal. So here we are.

Fri, 11/9: We arrived in San Francisco on Friday night. We headed to the Prescott Hotel in Union Square.

Sat, 11/10: We headed north towards Sausalito to a gorgeous vantage point of Golden Gate Bridge and the city.

I have wanted to take E to Sequoia National Park to see the GI-normous trees that dwarf even the largest of humans. Since we were in San Francisco, I decided to take him to Muir Woods. Located just 12 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge, in an isolated canyon grows an ancient giant coast redwood forest.

It was a quiet sanctuary in a growing urban setting so close to the city, but seemed thousands of miles away. We arrived at the perfect time of the morning when it was still quiet and the air was crisp, with a light sprinkle of rain.

We headed to the adjacent coastal town of Sausalito. Horizons sits right on the bay and offered us the most amazing view. Since we were in San Francisco, we had to do an entire seafood affair for the weekend. We enjoyed Dungeness crab cakes and local mussels.

For dinner, we decided to try our luck at Tadich Grill. It claims to be the oldest restaurant in all of San Francisco, being in continuous operation since 1849. Most importantly, it's cioppino is legendary. For those reasons, they do not take reservations...

We were seated right away at a two top. Our waiter was a little.... whats the word? E best described him as squirly; me, "quirky." I can't even recall right now what made us think that. We continued with our seafood weekend by starting with the Dungeness crab cocktail. E decided on the Pacific Red Snapper topped with even more Dungeness crab. My heart was set on the seafood cioppino, so I barely looked at the menu.

The cioppino was filled with clams, prawns, scallops, bay shrimp, crabmeat, and white fish swimming in a wonderfully flavored tomato based broth. We saw the other diners wearing bibs when consuming cioppino. I was not offered a bib. I guess he recognized my skills and didn't require one...

Sat, 11/10: We spent the morning in Union Square, then headed to the Golden Gate Bridge. We stopped at the viewing area right before the bridge. We couldn't find a parking space, so we continued to the Presidio and found a little parking area to the left, where there was an amazing view of the bridge. We hiked down to the Presidio and sat on a bench to enjoy the view and the weather. I read about this little hot dog company that has stands all over the city: Let's Be Frank. There was one in the park and there was always a line. We wanted to see what the hub bub was all about! They offered corn fed beef dogs and pork brats, and basically all organic condiments. We got a dog sitting on some freshly grilled onions with some bottled root beer-- (ok, ok we broke stride for a "all seafood weekend"). It was definitely worth it!

There was so much more to do, but we didn't have any more time. We didn't even go to Fisherman's Wharf or Alcatraz. I guess that means we have to come back soon...